Motus Aquaticus

Sterilizing a scuba regulator that someone has vomited in is critical to ensure it’s safe and hygienic for future use. Vomit introduces organic matter—bacteria, stomach acid, and food particles—that can fester in the regulator’s mouthpiece, hoses, and second stage if not properly cleaned. Here’s how to tackle it effectively:

Steps to Sterilize a Scuba Regulator

1. Immediate Rinse:
   • As soon as possible, rinse the regulator thoroughly with fresh water—ideally while still at the dive site. Submerge it and flush the mouthpiece and exhaust valve by pressing the purge button. This clears out chunks and reduces acid corrosion on metal parts. Don’t let it sit unrinsed; bacteria like E. coli or Salmonella can multiply fast in warm, moist conditions.
2. Disassemble (If Trained):
   • If you’re qualified to service your regulator (or it’s a rental and you’ve got permission), remove the mouthpiece and any detachable parts. Most divers shouldn’t crack open the second stage beyond that—leave internals to pros to avoid damaging diaphragms or seals.
3. Initial Cleaning:
   • Soak the mouthpiece and exterior in warm (not hot) water with a mild dish soap like Dawn. Use a soft brush (e.g., an old toothbrush) to scrub crevices where vomit might lodge. Avoid harsh abrasives—they can scratch surfaces and harbor germs later.
4. Disinfection:
   • Submerge the regulator (mouthpiece and second stage) in a solution of 1 part white vinegar to 3 parts water or a commercial dive gear disinfectant (like Steramine tablets or Dettol diluted per instructions). Soak for 10-15 minutes. Vinegar kills most bacteria and neutralizes odors; commercial options might tackle viruses too.
   • Alternatively, a 1:10 bleach-to-water mix works (e.g., 1 oz bleach to 10 oz water), but rinse extra thoroughly after 5-10 minutes—bleach can degrade rubber over time if left on.
5. Flush Again:
   • After soaking, run fresh water through the regulator by purging it repeatedly. Attach it to a tank and blow air through (mouthpiece off) to clear the hose and exhaust valve. This ensures no disinfectant or residue lingers.
6. Dry Completely:
   • Air-dry the regulator in a shaded, ventilated spot. Sunlight can degrade rubber, and moisture left inside invites mold. Hang it with the hose down to drain fully.
7. Inspect and Test:
   • Check for lingering smells or discoloration. If it still stinks, repeat the disinfection. Before diving, test breathing and purging on land to confirm it’s working smoothly.

Why It Matters

Vomit isn’t just gross—it’s a biohazard. Stomach acid (pH as low as 1.5-3.5) can corrode metal contacts or weaken seals, while bacteria like Streptococcus or Clostridium could cause infections if inhaled or ingested later. A poorly cleaned regulator might also clog, affecting airflow underwater. Rental gear especially needs this treatment—vomit’s not rare after seasickness or panic dives.

Pro Tip

If it’s rental gear and you’re not comfy sterilizing it yourself, insist the dive shop handles it. Reputable ones have protocols (often using quaternary ammonium cleaners) and service techs to strip and sanitize internals. For personal gear, get it serviced annually anyway—vomit’s a good excuse to bump that up.

Gear-Specific Notes

• Mouthpiece: Replace it if it’s detachable and cheap (under $10 usually). Easier than stressing over perfect cleaning.
• First Stage: Less likely to need deep cleaning unless vomit backflowed (rare), but rinse it well with the dust cap on.
• Hoses: Hard to sterilize internally—rely on flushing and pros if you suspect contamination.

No hard data exists on regulator-specific infections, but hospital-grade cleaning studies show vinegar or bleach solutions knock out 99%+ of common pathogens. Good enough for peace of mind—just don’t skip steps.